The Rolex Submariner 1985 is a classic dive watch from Rolex’s iconic Submariner collection. By the mid-1980s, Rolex had firmly established the Submariner as one of the most reliable and stylish tools for professional divers and watch enthusiasts alike. The 1985 model retains the design ethos of durability, precision, and timeless elegance. Below is a detailed description of the key features typical of a Submariner from this era:

Key Features:

1. Case:
   • Material: Stainless steel, known for its corrosion resistance and robustness, especially in marine environments.
   • Size: 40mm case diameter, the standard for most Submariners, offering a balanced presence on the wrist.
   • Water Resistance: Rated to a depth of 300 meters (1000 feet), making it suitable for professional diving activities.
2. Bezel:
   • Type: Unidirectional rotating bezel to prevent accidental adjustments during timing dives.
   • Insert: Aluminum with a 60-minute scale, featuring clear markings and a luminous pip at the zero marker for enhanced visibility underwater.
   • Color: Black, providing a sleek, classic look, though other variations like blue may exist for specific models.
3. Dial:
   • Color: Black with a matte or gloss finish, depending on production batch.
   • Markers: Luminous hour markers (dots and rectangles) for superior legibility in low-light conditions, paired with Mercedes-style hands.
   • Cyclops Lens: Certain models feature the iconic magnifying Cyclops lens over the date display, enhancing readability.
   • Text: The dial typically includes “Rolex Oyster Perpetual,” “Submariner,” and depth rating in white text.
4. Movement:
   • Caliber: Equipped with Rolex’s in-house automatic movement, likely the Caliber 3035, which was a reliable and precise mechanism used during the 1980s. It featured a quick-set date function and boasted a 28,800 beats per hour (bph) frequency.
   • COSC Certification: Chronometer-certified for accuracy.
5. Bracelet:
   • Type: Oyster bracelet, crafted from stainless steel for comfort and durability.
   • Clasp: Flip-lock clasp with an extension link, allowing it to be worn over a wetsuit.
6. Crystal:
   • Sapphire crystal introduced in Submariners during the late 1970s and early 1980s, offering excellent scratch resistance.

The 1985 Submariner reflects the transition period of Rolex dive watches from vintage to more modern elements. It combines a blend of classic aesthetics with advanced features for the time, including the introduction of sapphire crystal and improvements in water resistance. As part of the reference numbers in production during the mid-1980s, models like the Rolex Submariner 16800 (with date) and Rolex Submariner 5513 (no date) are the most notable.

Collectibility:

A 1985 Submariner is highly sought after in the vintage watch market. Factors affecting its value include the condition, presence of original parts (like the bezel insert, hands, and dial), and accompanying documentation (box, papers, service records).

This model encapsulates Rolex’s dedication to precision engineering and timeless design, making it an enduring classic in the world of luxury watches.

Specification:

General Information

• Brand: Rolex
• Model: Submariner
• Production Year: 1985
• Reference Numbers:
  • With Date: 16800 or 168000 (Transitional Models)
  • Without Date: 5513

Case

• Material: 316L or 904L Stainless Steel (Depending on Reference)
• Diameter: 40mm
• Thickness: ~13mm
• Lug Width: 20mm
• Case Back: Solid screw-down stainless steel
• Water Resistance: 300 meters (1000 feet)

Bezel

• Type: Unidirectional rotating bezel
• Material: Stainless steel with aluminum insert
• Markings: 60-minute scale with luminous pip at the zero position
• Color: Black

Dial

• Color: Black (Matte or Gloss, depending on reference)
• Markers: Luminous hour markers (circular, rectangular, triangular)
• Hands: Mercedes-style hands with luminescent fill
• Date Display:
  • With Date Models: Cyclops lens magnifies the date at 3 o’clock
  • Without Date Models: No date window

Crystal

• Material: Sapphire crystal
• Anti-Reflective Coating: None

Movement

• Caliber: Rolex Caliber 3035
• Type: Automatic, self-winding
• Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
• Power Reserve: ~48 hours
• Functions:
  • Hours, minutes, seconds
  • Quick-set date (for models with date)
• COSC Certification: Yes (Chronometer-certified for precision)

Bracelet

• Type: Rolex Oyster bracelet
• Material: Stainless Steel
• Clasp: Flip-lock clasp with diver extension
• End Links: Solid or hollow, depending on reference

Additional Features

• Lume Type: Tritium (marked with “T Swiss T” or “Swiss-T<25” on the dial)
• Crown: Screw-down crown with Triplock system for water resistance
• Serial Numbers: Range aligns with mid-1980s Rolex production.

Notable References in 1985

• Rolex Submariner 16800: Transitional model featuring a sapphire crystal and 300m water resistance but retaining a matte dial.
• Rolex Submariner 5513: Iconic no-date model with a matte dial and acrylic crystal .

This 1985 model is an exceptional example of Rolex’s dive watch innovation during the era, balancing rugged functionality with luxury aesthetics.